Copy and Restoration Prices and Services (PDF)

price list copies oct 2010

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From the Adopt a Pix section

These three 5×7 images were shot on glass plates.  I have started collecting them, and other old images.  It amazes me the quality of the images,  especially considering the plates were prepared by hand.

So you want to sell on the web? here is a quick how to…

QuantcastI would like to address those who are wanting to sell on the web in sites like eBay or Craigslist. Having been a seller of photo equipment on ebay for 10 years, and over 40 years of professional photographic background. A major problem people have selling items, is in the photographs they provide to show their item(s) (products), often they are out of focus, area is too cluttered with unrelated items, the item was put on a base that confuses the item, subject item is too far away from the camera to see detail, light and dark areas run together blocking out important detail, and/or angles and views do not provide the information to make an intelligent decision.
Most people when they want to buy something are visual, I am, and I want to see what it looks like not a stock image downloaded from a store or manufacturer, that doesn’t tell me what the item I am looking at is really like. Usually I will pass up an item if I suspect it is a stock photo, or cannot determine detail by visual inspection. I recently received a hand-held DVD player I suckered for off Craigslist, the young girl who listed it, gave me a stock photo, which didn’t match what I got, and after a month of hassle, I got it, not what I thought I was getting, but her used, and worn, not new as listed, without the power supply. but hey it works and I am a bit wiser.
This problem is not just in the home marketers but includes businesses. I was watching some items on shopgoodwill.com and there was a 500mm mirror lens listed, it could be worth a fair amount of money or be a complete piece of junk, It might fit one of my cameras but might not, the description doesn’t specify, and the picture is poor so I cannot determine what it is, I only determine it is a mirror lens because it looks like the lens cap is placed in the middle of a larger glass lens.
What if you were presented the tools, and the knowledge in easy format so that you would be able to do this right. It could mean that lens which was at $11 dollars at the time could go for several hundred dollars.
People can build a quick light tent by turning an old style 4′x4′ card table upside down onto another table or counter, drape the left, right, top and back with a white bed sheet, and use quartz halogen, 5000K compact florescent, even use the sun to build a shooting environment for quality photos in a tent.
A simple inexpensive light tent made of a frame of PVC plastic pipe and fittings, can be set up or taken down, for easy storage and transport, which is also scalable for the specific needs of the user.
The light source must be equal from the top, back and sides while not reflecting light forward into the camera lens causing glare. You should be able to see a shadow to the front, left, right or back if any of the light sources are to bright or close. I will include photos later, and we can discuss the issues in detail as well. But for now you have a simple framework to shoot into.

Photo Preservation Why and How

Like American and World Wide Organizations, Families have become aware, that there is a problem with the future survival of modern day photographic and printed images. Much research has gone into techniques for their preservation. We will try to include here some of those Ideas.

Like these agencies it is important for you to take inventory of your families photographic images, and determine what is important to preserve of your family heritage for the future.

During the first half of the last century the pictures were fiber (quality paper) based photographs that were for the most part archival, the second half of the century, with the advent of plastic coated photographs, both black & white and color, the durability changed. Prints, especially color, relied on dye for their image, where the old fiber based images relied on the metal “silver” to produce the image. With these changes came the question of how long will the plastics last, and what about the dyes in the color photographs or even those instant camera (Polaroid) prints, will they remain. Just look at your early color photographs for your answer. Now we have digital cameras, and ink-jet printers, and while this is great for those quick photos, how stable will the prints be on the paper now available, or even the dyes in the ink-jet printers. All of this poses question to be considered, in the protection of those images we hold of high value. Many people are burning CD’s and DVD’s of their photographs, and sharing them with family. While this is good, hard drives, CD’s and DVD’s also lack long term storage reliability. What about those prints that are failing, or have been damaged. or are in danger, from damage, lets look at the options.

Maintain a suitable environment.

* Minimize handling your photographs with bare hands, or have them matted or mounted.
* Consider the storage container, avoid acidic surroundings. Mats, folders, and mounting adhesives must be chemically stable, non-staining and permanent, but removable.
* Framing and matting done prior to 1980, is likely to have been done with questionable materials. (Browning of the cut edge of the framing/matting material is an indication of trouble).

Essentials of Proper framing.

* Mat, window and backboard should be of 100% rag-board or lignin-free, alkaline-buffered mat-board.
* Mounting should not be with commercial tape. (cellophane, masking or duct tapes)
* Items should be covered with protective glazing, either glass or rigid acrylic.
* The artwork must not be in direct contact with the glazing material.
* Ultraviolet filtering products, available in glass as well as plastic are recommended to protect against the most destructive component of light.
* Caution, acrylic material can carry a static charge and must not be used with work done with pastels, charcoal, or other powdery or flaking medium (early photographers often used charcoal to hide error, enhance photographs).
* Framed work should have a protective layer of sturdy, lignin-free cardboard at the back of the frame for support, and the frame should be sealed to discourage the entry of air or insects.
* Un-framed works of art or photos must have individual protective enclosures. Matting or folders are acceptable, though again be sure of the quality of the materials.
* Protect the edges of the artwork or photograph, folders should be somewhat larger than their contents.
* Metal containers are preferred over wood to store negatives, photographs or art work, because wood gives off acidic gases.
* Avoid direct sunlight on your images as well as fluorescent and metal halogen lamps which give off UV.
* Temperature and relative humidity (RH) should not exceed 70deg F, and 60% humidity amounts, above this can encourage mold and insect activity, extreme low humidity can cause materials to become brittle.
* Make sure the place you store your works are as secure as possible against weather damage.

See: Storage and Care of Kodak Photographic Materials Rochester, N.Y.: Eastman Kodak, Kodak Pub. E-30 or many sources free on the Internet.

Finally, I might suggest multiple copies distributed among friends and family is a good practice for the assurance of maintaining your treasured family photo history.

Here are two postcards of a building, the goal was to merge them into a Panoramic

This was a project, done by computer the customer wanted the two images merged for a panoramic for family, they were two shots printed on postcards.  There were several problems right from the start.  The photographer didn’t hold the camera level so they wouldn’t match evenly, they were not shot from the same spot, there was a time  factor, shadows had changed, and the exposures varied, and a hunk of the building was missing between the two images.

Traditional Photo Services

In researching “what to do with my old negatives and prints”, I was surprised to find very few companies who bothered working with old film and prints.  Most often my search led to some social post, someone asking “what can I do with these negatives”, or “where can I go to have prints made”?

This blog is to let people know, I do it, and if I don’t do it, I know where you can go for it.

For those out there involved in genealogy, family history, or just wanting to pass on heritage of family pictures to relatives and children. Yes we can print your pictures, by traditional methods, or digitize the negatives or prints to CD or DVD.

At this time, this page is a bit sparse on info, but my email is idahophotoist@gmail.com, so if you have questions, I will be glad to respond.  As this page progresses, there will be tips, hints, and how-to’s so check back often as we work this out.